Climbing Gunung Marapi in West Sumatra

Climbing Gunung Marapi in West Sumatra

Charcoal clouds swirled across an onyx moonscape of mud. Hanging around didn’t seem like a good idea. Precious few things get me going at 04:30. Sunrises definitely aren’t one of them. I made that mistake once in Maui. Flip-flopped and freezing, I nearly broke my...
19 Days of Trekking Alone in the Himalayas

19 Days of Trekking Alone in the Himalayas

Still alive! I just finished 19 days of wandering solo, self-guided, through the valleys, summits, and glaciers of the Himalayas. The finest mountain scenery available on earth was at my disposal each day, as were all four cardinal directions. There were two separate...
Running With the Bulls

Running With the Bulls

Part 1: If you haven’t read it, here’s what happens when waiting to run with the bulls. It was a relief when the police finally released us from the miserable holding pen. As I walked around Dead Man’s Corner to choose my starting place, the visual caused...
San Fermin in Pamplona: Getting Ready to Run

San Fermin in Pamplona: Getting Ready to Run

Whoever said that bulls “enter a ring” had never been inside a ring with a bull. Bulls don’t enter, they explode into the ring in a cloud of thunder, violence, and anger. My clammy hands fumbled my camera at the bullfight with my local friend, Ted, as I silently made...
Mount Rogers, Virginia: The Art of Being Cold

Mount Rogers, Virginia: The Art of Being Cold

No one expected to step out of the Jeep into a full-on blizzard. Sideways snow blew in 45 mph wind, creating a total whiteout—my second mountainous whiteout of 2014 already. The trail itself was hidden by a foot of fresh snow. Adrenaline pushed us forward, desperately...