Climbing Gunung Marapi in West Sumatra

Climbing Gunung Marapi in West Sumatra

Charcoal clouds swirled across an onyx moonscape of mud. Hanging around didn’t seem like a good idea. Precious few things get me going at 04:30. Sunrises definitely aren’t one of them. I made that mistake once in Maui. Flip-flopped and freezing, I nearly broke my...
Jungle Trekking in Laos and Befriending Parasites

Jungle Trekking in Laos and Befriending Parasites

The jungle did its job. And the leeches were experts at theirs in the Luang Nam Tha Protected Area of Laos. I scraped the wiggling bloodsuckers off with my knife at every stop, but new ones would grab hold of my left foot even as I was clearing the right. We danced...
Climbing Gunung Sibayak in Sumatra

Climbing Gunung Sibayak in Sumatra

Two months ago I tackled Gunung Sibayak — an active volcano in North Sumatra, Indonesia, with three new friends. The visuals, eerie landscape, and risky down climb were part of an adventure that I’ll never forget. As an added bonus, I was kept awake all...
Kadidiri in the Togean Islands, Sulawesi

Kadidiri in the Togean Islands, Sulawesi

The perfect day. After my usual lunch of rice and fish, and telling the lucky divers an envious goodbye as they left on the boat (I can’t wear fins with my feet still bad), I put a shirt on, grabbed my knife and camera, and headed for my favorite place in the...