Mount Rogers, Virginia: The Art of Being Cold

Mount Rogers, Virginia: The Art of Being Cold

No one expected to step out of the Jeep into a full-on blizzard. Sideways snow blew in 45 mph wind, creating a total whiteout—my second mountainous whiteout of 2014 already. The trail itself was hidden by a foot of fresh snow. Adrenaline pushed us forward, desperately...
Mount Rainier: Hiking to Camp Muir

Mount Rainier: Hiking to Camp Muir

The soundtrack for our breakfast was the booming of distant rock slides and avalanches. We were standing on Mount Rainier, hiking to Camp Muir atop the mighty mountain. The avalanches couldn’t be seen, but they were certainly felt. We heard the first earlier that...
Surviving Super Typhoons

Surviving Super Typhoons

Happiness is the sag of heavy insects clinging hungrily to a mosquito net. The warm glow of a blood meal just inches away drives them mad while I sleep soundly beneath. The click click of legions of hermit crabs climbing and falling on rocks, holding secret meetings...

Old Manali to Solong: A Himalayan Adventure

This is about my adventure of getting from Old Manali to Solong, but first… An earthquake — the second of the day — rattled the glasses around my rooftop cafe. Exciting stuff, and the first tremor that I’d felt since waiting to climb a volcano...

Trouble in Lake Toba, Sumatra

Amazing how sore a few days on a motorbike can make your bottom. There are two types of motorbike drivers in Southeast Asia: those that have already fed the concrete and those that are going to feed the concrete with skin and blood. Luckily, I’m still a part of...