Last updated Aug 22, 2022 | First published on Jun 5, 2017 | Sumatra
Pacu Jawi (pronounced like “pachu jawi”) is traditional cow racing in West Sumatra. Yes, you heard that correctly, cow racing. These lively, muddy (and potentially dangerous, depending on where you stand) events serve as a fun excuse to gather and...
Last updated Aug 16, 2022 | First published on May 4, 2017 | Sumatra
Charcoal clouds swirled across an onyx moonscape of mud atop Gunung Marapi in West Sumatra. Hanging around didn’t seem like a good idea. Very few things get me going at 04:30. Sunrises definitely aren’t one of them. I made that mistake once in Maui. Flip-flopped and...
Last updated Aug 2, 2022 | First published on Nov 15, 2011 | Sumatra
In August 2011, I was climbing Gunung Sibayak without a guide (Sumatra, Indonesia). The eerie landscape of the caldera and risky scramble down were part of an adventure that I’ll never forget. As an added bonus, I was kept awake all night before the climb by...