Last updated Jun 29, 2022 | First published on Jun 30, 2009 | Indonesia (Not Bali)
I never expected to find myself whale hunting in Lamalera, Indonesia, a remote corner of Indonesia far to the east and not too far from Papua. But there I sat in a wobbly canoe as chaos swirled around me and men scrambled to save our lives. I watched in horror as...
Last updated Apr 19, 2022 | First published on Jun 28, 2009 | Indonesia (Not Bali)
Every time I think I’m getting comfortable with life in Adonara, Indonesia, it baffles me with something unexpected. Last night, a screaming monkey came berserking out of nowhere while I was having dinner outside with Lina’s extended family. The little...
Last updated Mar 8, 2022 | First published on Jun 24, 2009 | Indonesia (Not Bali)
Within minutes of arriving, an old man was leading me by the hand up the steep mountain path. I walked out of the dark into the large, open-air communal area lit by a generator and a few swinging lights. Inside, the mother of all vagabonding challenges was awaiting...