Whale Hunting in Lamalera, Indonesia

Whale Hunting in Lamalera, Indonesia

I never expected to find myself whale hunting in Lamalera, Indonesia, a remote corner of Indonesia far to the east and not too far from Papua. But there I sat in a wobbly canoe as chaos swirled around me and men scrambled to save our lives. There were two choices:...
Life in Adonara, Indonesia

Life in Adonara, Indonesia

Every time I think I’m getting comfortable with life in Adonara, Indonesia, it baffles me with something unexpected. Last night, a screaming monkey came berserking out of nowhere while I was having dinner outside with Lina’s extended family. The little...
The Final Exam

The Final Exam

Within minutes of arriving, an old man was leading me by the hand up the steep mountain path. I walked out of the dark into the large, open-air communal area lit by a generator and a few swinging lights. Inside, the mother of all vagabonding challenges was awaiting...