The Witch Doctors of Siquijor Island

The Witch Doctors of Siquijor Island

You learn a lot of useful things while traveling, particularly in a place such as Siquijor Island in the Philippines. For instance, I didn’t know that a manananaggal is a hideous, blood-sucking witch capable of detaching her upper torso and sprouting wings to...
12 Years of Vagabonding

12 Years of Vagabonding

On January 23, 2006, I began a journey from which I never really returned. At least my torso did; Delta made sure of that. But my mind, heart, and particularly my eyes, were irrevocably changed forever. The red pill was swallowed after a lifetime of eating blues for...
Bali Update: Mount Agung and Change of Plans

Bali Update: Mount Agung and Change of Plans

I knew exactly what to do when I hit the ground in Bali. After chasing Sumatran cows in the spring, and having a big Indonesian adventure last year, I assimilated back into the Indonesia groove easily enough. My limited Bahasa vocabulary even bubbled to the surface....
Vagabonding Resumes: Back in Bali

Vagabonding Resumes: Back in Bali

Everyone seemed to be looking at me as I glided through the airport in Chicago. I slowly became aware of the unwanted attention. It was a strange phenomenon. So I straightened my back and held my head higher. I was making a statistically improbable amount of eye...
Cow Racing in Sumatra (Pacu Jawi)

Cow Racing in Sumatra (Pacu Jawi)

Grip tightened, throttle open, lowered helmet cutting through black diesel. I was the last in the three-motorbike convoy that left the Harau Valley at high speed. I kept up for maybe an hour or so before the mad tentacles of Sumatran traffic separated us. It came in...