


Vagabonding Resumes: Back in Bali
Everyone seemed to be looking at me as I glided through the airport in Chicago. I slowly became aware of the unwanted attention. It was a strange phenomenon. So I straightened my back and held my head higher. I was making a statistically improbable amount of eye...
Cow Racing in Sumatra (Pacu Jawi)
Grip tightened, throttle open, lowered helmet cutting through black diesel. I was the last in the three-motorbike convoy that left the Harau Valley at high speed. I kept up for maybe an hour or so before the mad tentacles of Sumatran traffic separated us. It came in...
Climbing Gunung Marapi in West Sumatra
Charcoal clouds swirled across an onyx moonscape of mud. Hanging around didn’t seem like a good idea. Precious few things get me going at 04:30. Sunrises definitely aren’t one of them. I made that mistake once in Maui. Flip-flopped and freezing, I nearly broke my...