Bali Update: Mount Agung and Change of Plans

Bali Update: Mount Agung and Change of Plans

I knew exactly what to do when I hit the ground in Bali. After chasing Sumatran cows in the spring, and having a big Indonesian adventure last year, I assimilated back into the Indonesia groove easily enough. My limited Bahasa vocabulary even bubbled to the surface....
Vagabonding Resumes: Back in Bali

Vagabonding Resumes: Back in Bali

Everyone seemed to be looking at me as I glided through the airport in Chicago. I slowly became aware of the unwanted attention. It was a strange phenomenon. So I straightened my back and held my head higher. I was making a statistically improbable amount of eye...
Cow Racing in Sumatra (Pacu Jawi)

Cow Racing in Sumatra (Pacu Jawi)

Grip tightened, throttle open, lowered helmet cutting through black diesel. I was the last in the three-motorbike convoy that left the Harau Valley at high speed. I kept up for maybe an hour or so before the mad tentacles of Sumatran traffic separated us. It came in...
Climbing Gunung Marapi in West Sumatra

Climbing Gunung Marapi in West Sumatra

Charcoal clouds swirled across an onyx moonscape of mud. Hanging around didn’t seem like a good idea. Precious few things get me going at 04:30. Sunrises definitely aren’t one of them. I made that mistake once in Maui. Flip-flopped and freezing, I nearly broke my...
Vagabonding Begins in 2017

Vagabonding Begins in 2017

It’s the little things. In this instance, the little things that crawl on you. It was the presence of a small ant harmless picking its way through my leg hair that lifted a solid, good-to-know fact out of the haze in my brain: I am back in Bangkok. Sure, ants do...